From Chopin to the fall of Communism, Gdansk promises a break that is alive with history
GDANSK, an architectural gem on the Baltic coast, was almost completely destroyed by the Red Army in 1944-45. Luckily many of the grand Hanseatic buildings in its medieval town centre have since been immaculately rebuilt and restored. Just wandering these streets, many of which are pedestrianised, brings history back to life.
Other places of interest nearby include the seaside resort of Sopot, the port city of Gdynia, the Teutonic Knights’ fortress of Malbork (60km south-east of Gdansk) and if you’re into a more harrowing experience, the concentration camp of Stutthof (55km east of Gdansk).
WHAT TO SEE
Climbing the 82m (270ft) tower of St Mary’s basilica gives an impressive view of Gdansk old town. When built in the 14th century St Mary’s could accommodate 25,000 people, the entire population of Gdansk — or Danzig as it was then called at the time.
More recently the church’s size came in useful when members of the Solidarity trade union took refuge there from their Communist oppressors. Nearby the streets of Dlugi Targ (Long market) and ul. Mariacka (Mary Street) are both lined with stunning baroque-style civic buildings and town houses.
The Solidarity Museum at the former Lenin shipyard provides an insight into the shipyard workers’ strike of August 1980 and how this sparked the fall of the Berlin wall and the collapse of Communism. In the nearby seaside resort of Sopot you can stroll down Europe’s longest wooden pier and visit the house where Polish composer Frederik Chopin played the piano (Dworek Sierakowskich).
SHOPPING
Poland’s retail offering has improved immeasurably since the fall of Communism, before which many shops had bare shelves. A string of glitzy malls — such as the eight-storey Manhattan mall in the suburb of Wrzeszcz — have sprung up in the past five years.
These temples to western consumerism sell everything from CDs to reasonably fashionable clothes, often for much less than you would pay back home. More traditional items such as amber jewellery, sausages and traditional Polish vodka can be purchased in the boutiques of the old town. But watch out for fake amber.
EATING
Poland is not renowned for the quality its cuisine, which can seem somewhat stodgy to western tastes. If you’re into wild boar and venison, then head for Mysliwska which is modelled on a hunting lodge (ul. Jaskowa Dolina 114, 0048 58 341 7027). Chlopskie Jadlo (ul, Szeroka 32; 0048 58 301 4654), literally “peasant food”, serves up large roast meat dishes to share. Pierogarnia U Dzika (ul Piwna 59/60; 0048 58 305 2676) specialises in the local delicacy of dumplings stuffed with savoury fillings, while the more upmarket Pod Lososiem, frequented by the late Pope John Paul II (ul. Szeroka 52/54; 0048 58 301 7652) specialises in grilled salmon and roast game. Tawerna (ul.Powroznicza 19-20, 0048 58 301 4114) serves Gdansk’s best seafood restaurant.
WHERE TO STAY
Podewils, (ul. Szafarnia 2, 0048 58 300 9560) is a small boutique-style hotel that oozes character near the old town, and is probably Gdansk’s poshest place to sleep.
Better value but more central are the Hanza (ul. Tokarska 6, 0048 58 305 3386) and the somewhat austere Mercure Hevelius (ul. Heweliusza 22, 0048 58 321 0000). The Novotel Gdansk Marina (ul. Jelitkowska 20, 0048 58 558 9100) in Sopot has an indoor pool and adjacent to the sandy beach and is an ideal place for a relaxing visit, while the Hotel Rezydent (Pl. Konstytucji 3 Maja 3, 0048 58 555 5800) is handily located in Sopot’s town centre.
HOW TO GET THERE
Low cost airline Centralwings (0048 22 558 0045, www.centralwings.com) flies three times per week from Edinburgh to Gdansk, with one-way fares starting at £19.89 including taxes. At this time of the year the airline’s winter schedule means two flights per week. Centralwings also flies three times weekly to Warsaw and Katowice.
This article was published in the Sunday Herald magazine on 5 November 2006